Issue 9: June 28, 2007

Scientifically Speaking

Dermalogica Research & Development News from Dr. Diana Howard

Many of you have inquired as to why Dermalogica uses paraben preservatives and whether or not

they are safe to use. First of all, let me say that Dermalogica would never expose any of our

users to anything that might harm them. We at Dermalogica take pride in the fact that we have

always been committed to the overall health of the human body, not just the skin. In the past two

years, a host of non-government organizations have targeted the parabens; despite the lack of

credible scientific data to support the concern, they have succeeded in creating a state of

confusion. The inherent bad press has created a hostile environment whereby cosmetic companies

must now deal with the consumer’s negative perception of the safety of parabens. As the education

leader in our industry it is our job to provide truthful and adequate information to our

professional skin therapists and the consumer. This issue of Scientifically Speaking will be

dedicated to informing you about the safety of parabens.

For years now, parabens have been considered the mildest and most commonly used of all

preservatives available to the cosmetic formulator. They have been used not only in cosmetics,

but in food and medicines as well. When evaluating studies, one has to ask what concentrations

were tested in the study and was it topically applied, injected or orally administered. Most of

the studies are of the latter two, which are not indicative of topical exposure; nor are they

indicative of the concentrations generally found in a cosmetic product. When used in cosmetics

parabens are used in concentrations less than 1%. Furthermore, the Final Report on the Safety

Assessment of the parabens indicates that “the parabens are non-toxic, non mutagenic, non

carcinogenic, practically non irritating and non-sensitizing in the human population with normal

skin.” The overall conclusion is that the parabens are safe to use in cosmetic products at the

concentrations generally used. When compared to most other preservatives, parabens have an

excellent safety record.

All of this bad press stems from the publication of a report entitled, Concentration of Parabens

in Human Breast Tumors, by P. Darbre in the Journal Appl. Toxicol. 24:5-13 (2004). In summary,

the authors claim parabens from deodorants mimic estrogen which causes breast cancer. However,

peer review indicated that the study does NOT find a causal link between underarm cosmetics

containing parabens and breast cancer; furthermore, scientists state that only 20 individuals

were in the study and no control group was analyzed. What’s more,  scientists were quick to point

out that extensive independent research has previously shown that esterase III, a skin enzyme

found in keratinocytes, completely hydrolyses topically applied parabens to harmless substances

that cannot pose any risk of cancer (Biol. Chem 377(1):647). Even the researchers involved with

the original Darbre work admitted that they could not prove where the parabens came from in their

study- they could have been from food or medicines and not cosmetics.

After reviewing the study, the conclusion of several leading cancer research organizations is

that, “there is no plausible biological mechanism by which parabens could cause breast cancer”.

And the author of the study even came out and said, “Larger studies are needed to give more

representative values for body burdens in different tissues and across the human population.”

Additional studies are underway which should enable assessment to be made of the impact of the

parabens on human health and whether paraben accumulation from currently permitted levels in

cosmetics, foods and pharmaceuticals remains acceptable. The Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance

Association issued a statement defending the safety of parabens and maintains that the Darbre

study is “very preliminary and based on a small sample size with inconsistent results. A wealth

of data supports the safety of parabens.” Dr Chris Fowler of the Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery

Association stated that, “parabens are officially approved for use under the Cosmetics Directive

(76/768/EEC), the European legislation that regulates all cosmetics and toiletries. We can

reassure the public that all cosmetic and toiletry products containing parabens may continue to

be used safely.”

The most common pattern of melasma is centrofacial: on the chin, upper lip, cheeks, nose, and forehead. But it can also show up to a lesser extent on the cheeks, nose, and jaw line.

Studies suggest up to 75% of women may develop melasma during pregnancy and about 33% of women on oral contraceptives show symptoms as well. However, once hormonal fluctuations subside, such as the end of pregnancy or the discontinuing of oral contraceptives, the hyperpigmentation often disappears.

It’s important you speak with your skin care professional, especially if you’re pregnant, before beginning treatment for hyperpigmentation.